Design 378 Diesel Tugs
Two boats were built to this design. I cant tell you who built them. The technical file says "sea trials at Huntington." They were built for Gallagher Sand & Gravel Corp of Rockville Centre, NY. The year was 1940.
More Gluing of Frames
Frames 2 and 3 have been completed now and Ive started on frame 1. Frame 0, the transom, will require a bit more thinking before starting so I am waiting on that to do separately instead of in tandem as I did the previous two frames. I have also started sanding down any glue squeeze out that occurred. I have been wiping the glue down as I go, but invariably, there is still some squeeze out which has to be attended to. Ive finished three of the frames in this task.
Ive been looking over some photos I have of other builds of this boat and frames 5 and 6 have portions that will be visible in the cabin. I knew this in the back of my mind but hadnt really thought about it much. Basically the upper frame members and the upper gussets will be visible. In order to make these presentable without having to resort to paint, I am considering veneering a thin layer of mahogany over the portion of the gusset that will be visible. Then, that and the visible frame members can be stained a nice color to compliment the other cabin woodwork.
I havent ruled out painting the interior yet, but I like the look of woodwork so its higher on my list of desirable outcomes. But in light of this uncertainty, I have decided to modify the encapsulation process which was to be the next phase of frame assembly.
You might remember that encapsulating the frames means coating them with several coats of epoxy resin as a way to waterproof them. This is a necessary step to insure that the boat will be protected from wood rot caused by water. However, coating the wood with epoxy means that I couldnt stain it later.
Since I am not sure at this point what color stain (if any) I want to use, I need to leave those visible portions uncoated . So, instead, I will be coating all the non-visible areas and leaving the remaining portions til later when the boat hull is complete and I am planning the interior. This way, I have flexibility on the final finish.
So that the reader has something besides my text to look at, I am including a picture of the frames completed so far. There are a few other pictures that are in my latest photos folder in the construction gallery. Frames 2 and 3 are the separate frames by the work bench. Frame 2 has the single piece horizontal bottom member while frame 3 has bottom members connected together by the floor timber and a gusset. The curved piece on the floor, is of course, the stem which hasnt been glued together yet. The other three frames against the wall have had all their glue lines cleaned up since this photo was taken.
So thats it for this week. Its rather difficult to come up with things to write about without resorting to the small details. So if there is a gap between this article and the next, its for precisely that reason. Take care.
More About Windalier Design 1615
A blog reader asked us to discuss the rig change for design #1615, Windalier, done in 1995. Its a pretty straightforward story. The owner felt that the boat was generally underpowered. At the same time he wished to switch to a carbon fiber main mast. Our task was to translate his desire for more sail area + weight savings aloft into increased sail area. The result was a double spreader rig that is 7 taller than the original mast.
Heres a comparison of the two sail plans.
And here she is under sail with the new rig.
Speaking of Windalier, we found this sequence of images from the time of her launch at Abeking & Rasmussen from launch to being loaded on a ship bound for America. Note the varnished deckhouse sides versus the painted sides she has today.
15 Classic Dinghy Design 2596
This 15 dinghy was designed in 1992. Designated the Wianno 15, three boats have been built to this design in fiberglass and one in wood. The design was heavily influenced by the sandbaggers of the early 20th century. An interesting feature is that the free standing carbon fiber mast can be relocated in heavy air, configuring the boat as a cat boat. Once the bow sprit is removed, the forward mast partners is exposed allowing this reconfiguration and providing for the exact same sailing balance.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 15-3"
LWL 15-0"
Beam 6-3 3/4"
Draft 4-6" (Centerboard Down)
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Mast
Having accumulated some parts for the mast over the last few months, I felt I owed it to myself to do some work fabricating the mast. The mast will be used for hoisting our tender to the roof along with any other heavy item we might want to lift. The radar dome and some other electronic gear will find a home in the mast. The mast will also support the future paravane rig along with a possible steady sail.
The mast is being fabricated out of six inch schedule 40 aluminum pipe with the boom being four inch schedule forty aluminum pipe. The six inch mast will be deck stepped with a fore stay and two shrouds on both port and starboard. Because their will be no back stay, two of the shrouds will be aft of 90 degrees to on both port and starboard, working with the fore stay to hold everything up. All the heavy framing and reinforcing was done on the super structure during the build.
The mast will be pinned to the step using two 1.25" stainless pins. The load bearing pin will support the mast with heavy bushings welded in to the mast while the locking pin will just lock through a bore in the mast. Because the mast will have the ability to quickly be laid down, clearance needs to be left under the mast between the mast and deck so it can pivot. While there wont be much of a compression load on the mast until a paravane rig is installed, I still plan on creating easily removed solid blocking under the mast to deal with future loading.
The first order of business was turning the bushings for the load bearing pin that will be used in the mast step. The pins are 1.25" SS, and like I said above, the bushing will be welded in to the mast. For bushing stock I found some heavy walled tube with an ID of 1.23" and a wall thickness of 3/8". Realizing the bore of the bushings are going to distort due to welding them in the mast, I found myself guessing at how far over I had to bore the bushings. Settling on .006 ( six thousandths ) over I have a feeling in my gut Ill have to re bore after the welding. The bushings are 1.5" long.
The next item to be fabricated is the joint that allows the mast to pivot up and down along with left to right. I think the proper name for this part is called a mast car. All the parts were made on my lathe including boring the 1.25" round bar to create the 3" long tube for the part. The leaf for the part was cut from 1/2" stainless plate and was TIG welded to the tube. Having bored the tube to a final dimension of .003 over ( the pin is 3/4") I was not surprised when the pin was not fitting well after I welded the part. Chucking the part back in the lathe to clean up the bore was expected and I ended up having to bore about .003 from the bore to get back the nice fit I had before the weld ( Im sitting here wondering how Im going to clean up the bore for the mast step bushings after that weld).
The hinge ears for the boom are fabricated from 1/2" aluminum plate. I notched the 4" boom to accept the 1/2" hinge ears using a circular saw and cleaned the notch up with rotary burrs and disc grinders. The bores for the hinge pin was drilled in my mill and reamed to a final diameter of 3/4". The hinge pin was turned to .001 under for an nice fit. Because I dont have a spool gun, all the welds are TIG, and required heavy clamping, and lots of tacking to keep alignment true due to the high heat TIG creates.
Once I can get back in to the boat yard ( their closed until the 5th) to measure the step, and how long the boom will be, Ill cut the boom to length and begin welding in the bushing for the mast step. Depending on how creative I get with the aft handrail on the roof deck, I can almost handle a 13 tender. 12 will be a better fit, and Im pretty sure thats the size tender we want. That being said, the boom will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 14 long. The beam of the roof is about 15 8", so that leaves me about 6 2" of boom to unload a tender with a beam of 5.
As of today, the plan to do all this hoisting is with two electric winches. One winch for the load, and another winch for the boom. 2000 lbs electric winches pull about 100 amps under full load. Instead of trying to run heavy cables to the winches, Ill probably build a battery box and locate it next to the mast step. We could have a small charger in the wheel house, and run leads from the wheel house to the winch battery to keep the charge.
So far this is a fun project and like all things boat build, much more work than Id anticipated. I have to do some research on cable and cable connectors to source some more parts, but that shouldnt be to hateful. I can for sure say its been nice getting to do some lathe work and TIG welding on nice clean metal.
Cheers
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All This and Sailing Too Giveaway
Today we drew two winners for copies of All This and Sailing Too, the Olin Stephens biography from those that entered our giveaway. One winner is from Ontario, Canada and the other from the U.S. Virgin Islands. Winners have been notified via email so check your inbox! If you havent heard from us Im sorry to report you didnt win. Thanks for playing.
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Evening At Flat Holm
The water was definitely flowing underneath us in a confused state. There was a a following breeze that would likely cause a bit of chop against tide on the return trip.
I brought along my hand line in the hope of catching something for the first time, it was not to be.
The tide was really flowing on approach to the island foiling any plans of a anti clockwise circumnavigation.
So we paddled on through the easterly race and on to Castle Rock.
I dont think I have seen the tide this high on Flat Holm before, and there was still another half hour before high water. The beach and slipway were well underwater so we went onto Coal Beach which is a little higher.
Just enough room to park a kayak but the tide was still rising.
This was Garys first visit to the island so we took a short walk up top. There were young gulls everywhere and grumpy parents. Time to leave before we get splattered.
Back on the water and through Castle Rock dead on high water.
Looking down at the GPS the tide didnt seem to be taking us yet.
There was a thin line of cloud blocking a full sunset. The tide finally kicked in about half way across causing some choppy water as predicted with the opposing wind. Glimpsing down at the GPS I noticed we were veering slightly off course so increased our angle of approach.
Behind a huge super moon rose beyond Flat Holm. This was my poor attempt of catching it on film whist trying to brace against the race off Lavernock.
We arrived back at the Captains Wife in the last of the days dying light.
Looking back at our GPS track you can see where the southerly tide was at its strongest. Combined with our relaxed approach it almost pushed us off course. An enjoyable evening on the water making the best of the settled conditions. It seems its all change as of next week with heavy rain and wind forecast.